Tirtha
विशालाक्षी
The seventeenth peetha is a small temple in a lane above the ghats, in a city that gives a small shrine a great deal to compete with.
Varanasi is named seventeenth in the hymn, under the goddess Vishalakshi — the wide-eyed. The shrine is small and easy to walk past: a temple in the lanes above Mir Ghat, a few minutes from the river, in a city whose scale and noise make a compact Devi shrine very easy to miss. Three things are worth carrying into a visit. First, this is one of three towns where a member of these eighteen stands in the same city as one of the twelve jyotirlingas — Srisailam and Ujjain are the others — but unlike Srisailam, where a single shrine holds both memberships, Varanasi's are two separate temples: Kashi Vishwanath and this. Second, a reader researching "the Kashi Shakti Peetha" will meet Manikarnika Ghat at least as often as Mir Ghat, and that is not a disagreement about this enumeration — it is the separate fifty-one-peetha literature's own Kashi entry, which sits at that ghat and carries an ear-ornament name, being read back into a list that never said it. Third, the shrine has a long and strong association with south Indian worship at Varanasi, and is one of the places a Tamil pilgrim to Kashi is likeliest to be directed to.
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