Tirtha

Omkareshwar

ओंकारेश्वर

An island the Narmada splits around, read as the syllable ॐ — and a jyotirlinga the tradition has never settled is one shrine or two.

Omkareshwar is fourth in the enumeration of the twelve, and it is set on an island in a river: the Narmada divides around a hill of rock in Khandwa district, Madhya Pradesh, and rejoins below it, leaving the island called Mandhata. The shrine of Omkareshwara stands on the island; a second shrine, written variously Mamleshwar, Amaleshwar or Amareshwar, stands on the south bank within sight of it. Which of the two is the jyotirlinga — or whether the two are one presence divided by a river — is not something the tradition has settled, and pilgrims resolve it in practice by visiting both. The site is also a station on the Narmada parikrama, so many who arrive here arrive on foot and keep walking.

Claims, and where they come from

Counted among

  • The Twelve Jyotirlingas — Twelve places where Shiva is worshipped not as an image but as a pillar of light with no beginning and no end.

Questions to explore

  • Two shrines stand a river apart here, and the verse that names this jyotirlinga is recited in ways that point at one of them or at both. Is a pilgrim's darshan incomplete without the second?
  • The Narmada is said to purify those who only look at it, where other rivers ask you to bathe. Where does that claim come from, and is it made of any other river?
  • The island is read as the shape of ॐ — a reading nobody could have had before maps. Does that make it a late invention, or a late noticing?

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