Tirtha
मङ्गला गौरी
The sixteenth peetha stands above a town the whole subcontinent visits for its dead — and the goddess is not why they come.
Gaya sits on the Phalgu in southern Bihar, and the hymn names it sixteenth under the goddess Mangala Gauri. The shrine is a compact stone temple on the Mangalagauri hill, one of the low rocky rises that stand over the old town, reached by a stair. What makes this entry worth reading carefully is the relationship between the shrine and the town around it. Gaya is one of the most-visited ritual sites in India, and almost none of that traffic is for the goddess: the town is where the subcontinent comes to perform pinda-dana, the offering of rice-balls for the ancestors, at Vishnupad and at the riverside sites along the Phalgu, and the fortnight of Pitru Paksha turns it into one of the fullest places in the country. That is a Vaishnava ancestral rite with its own literature and its own logic. The peetha stands above it, older in this list than the town's modern fame, and largely undisturbed by it. Gaya is also the head of the Gayasura triad — Siro Gaya, to Jajpur's Nabhi Gaya and Pithapuram's Pada Gaya — and all three of those towns are members of this same eighteen, which is a relation between two enumerations that the corpus records and does not explain.
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