Tirtha
महाकालेश्वर
Woken before dawn with ash from the river ghats — the one shrine of the twelve where the day begins with a cremation-ground rite.
Mahakaleshwar stands in Ujjain, on the Kshipra, in a city that has been a seat of astronomy and of kings for as long as India has kept records — the prime meridian of classical Indian astronomy ran through it. The name means lord of Mahakala, great time, and the shrine is approached as the deity who outlasts what he measures. Its distinguishing rite is the Bhasma Aarti before first light, in which the lingam is bathed in ash. Ujjain is also one of the four cities where the Kumbha is held, so the shrine's busiest years arrive on a twelve-year cycle rather than an annual one.
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