Tirtha

Kashi Vishwanath

काशी विश्वनाथ

Pilgrims come here to die: the tradition holds that Shiva speaks the mantra of crossing into the ear of anyone who ends at Kashi.

Kashi Vishwanath stands in Varanasi, in the lanes above the west bank of the Ganga, and it is the only one of the twelve set inside a great living city. That changes what the pilgrimage is: the tradition treats Kashi itself as the tirtha and the shrine as its centre rather than its whole, and gives the city an edge you can walk in the Panchakroshi Yatra, a circuit of shrines around its boundary. Kashi's distinguishing claim is about death rather than about the chart of a life — it is held that anyone who dies within the city is released, which is why the cremation ground at Manikarnika sits at the middle of the waterfront rather than outside the settlement. Unlike Kedarnath the shrine keeps no season and is open through the year. The temple building standing today dates from 1780; the site's earlier structures were destroyed and rebuilt more than once, which is recorded history rather than anything the puranas describe.

Claims, and where they come from

Counted among

  • The Twelve Jyotirlingas — Twelve places where Shiva is worshipped not as an image but as a pillar of light with no beginning and no end.

Questions to explore

  • The Kashi Khanda says Shiva never leaves this city, when every other tirtha is somewhere he came to. What kind of claim is that, and does any other place in the tradition make it?
  • Shiva is said to speak the taraka mantra into the ear of the dying here. Which mantra is meant, and do the texts agree?
  • The temple a pilgrim enters was built in 1780, beside ground the older shrine stood on. What makes it the same tirtha — the building, the linga, or the place?

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