Tirtha
काशी विश्वनाथ
Pilgrims come here to die: the tradition holds that Shiva speaks the mantra of crossing into the ear of anyone who ends at Kashi.
Kashi Vishwanath stands in Varanasi, in the lanes above the west bank of the Ganga, and it is the only one of the twelve set inside a great living city. That changes what the pilgrimage is: the tradition treats Kashi itself as the tirtha and the shrine as its centre rather than its whole, and gives the city an edge you can walk in the Panchakroshi Yatra, a circuit of shrines around its boundary. Kashi's distinguishing claim is about death rather than about the chart of a life — it is held that anyone who dies within the city is released, which is why the cremation ground at Manikarnika sits at the middle of the waterfront rather than outside the settlement. Unlike Kedarnath the shrine keeps no season and is open through the year. The temple building standing today dates from 1780; the site's earlier structures were destroyed and rebuilt more than once, which is recorded history rather than anything the puranas describe.
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