Tirtha

Chamundeshwari

चामुण्डेश्वरी

The hill fuses two goddesses the text keeps separate — the one who killed Chanda and Munda, and the one who killed Mahisha.

The fourth of the eighteen is named at a place the verse calls Krauncha Pattana, and the circuit reads that as Mysuru: the temple stands on Chamundi Hill, about a thousand metres up and some thirteen kilometres from the city. It is the goddess of the Wadiyar house, who ruled Mysore for six centuries and called her the Nada Devi, the goddess of the land, and her festival is the state's — Mysuru's Dasara is built on her victory. The hill was known earlier by another name, from the Mahabaleshwara temple of Shiva that stands on it and is older than the goddess's shrine. Two approaches serve it, a metalled road to the summit and a stone stairway of about a thousand steps from the base, with a large monolithic Nandi partway up the climb. The stairway and that Nandi were made in the seventeenth century, and the seven-tiered tower over the entrance in the nineteenth.

Claims, and where they come from

Counted among

  • The Shakti Peethas — Sati's body fell across the subcontinent — and the tradition has never agreed on how many pieces, or on how many shrines.

Questions to explore

  • The verse says Krauncha Pattana and the tradition says Mysuru, on the strength of a place-name nobody seems able to source. What would it take to actually establish that identification, and does it matter to a pilgrim if it cannot be?
  • The Devi Mahatmya gives Chamunda her name for killing Chanda and Munda, and gives Mahisha to a different form of the goddess. How did one hill come to hold both stories as one?
  • A dynasty made this goddess the deity of its state, and the state's own festival is still hers. What happens to a tirtha when a kingdom adopts it?

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